Cocina Libre: How Food and Storytelling Are Changing the Immigrant Narrative

Julia Roncoroni

“If you enter the conversation about immigration, theoretically or politically, you very quickly elicit a lot of really strong reactions. Whereas if you enter the conversation in a way that feels like shared common ground, like through food, it is easy to figure out that my liberation is tied to yours.” —Julia Roncoroni, founder of Cocina Libre

What does it mean to be an immigrant? Julia Roncoroni, a University of Denver alumna and adjunct professor of psychology, and her partner, Delio Figueroa, a music anthropologist and teacher in Adams County, both migrated to the United States in 2007 and have been working to tell immigrant stories ever since. However, their storytelling philosophy relies on more than just words; it uses the unspoken love language of homemade meals and sitting around a dining room table.

Roncoroni and Figueroa are the visionaries behind Cocina Libre, a Denver-based community outreach initiative that merges activism, storytelling and culinary traditions to humanize the immigrant experience. More than an organization, Cocina Libre is a movement—one that turns personal narratives into shared meals, breaking down stereotypes one dish at a time. Through community dinners, diversity, equity and inclusion workshops, and their best-selling cookbook, “Cocina Libre: Immigrant Resistance Recipes,” they are working to reshape the conversation around immigration.

“Food is physical nourishment, but it’s also storytelling, right? We attach meaning to food. We thought that one way to promote empathy toward immigrants was by combining food and storytelling. And that’s how Cocina Libre was born,” Roncoroni said. Thirty different immigrants from over 10 different countries share their stories and familial recipes in the Cocina Libre cookbook, combining personal anecdotes of crossing a dangerous migration route barefoot and resisting political tensions with traditional and in-depth recipes for borscht, shrimp ceviche, Afghan kachaloo, Bangladeshi beef stew and many others.

Roncoroni brings a new meaning to the idea of being an entrepreneur. Instead of merely making a profit, she sees her business as a way to connect a divided community. Cocina Libre’s cookbook project started in 2018 and was published in May 2024, after surviving the trials and tribulations of the COVID-19 pandemic. Cocina Libre sold over 650 copies in eight months and was named the #1 New Release on Amazon. Following the success of their cookbook, Roncoroni and Figueroa launched a collection of workshops, community dinners and DEI training aimed at educating and spreading awareness of immigrant lives and stories in Colorado.

Immigrants often enter the U.S. facing structural roadblocks, both in society and in their industries. The bureaucratic maze of the immigration system extends to the food industry, where immigrants face immense challenges in trying to establish themselves as chefs and business owners. The processes for registering a business, obtaining necessary permits and securing legal documentation are vastly different from those in their home countries.

Additionally, a lack of industry connections makes it even harder to break into the competitive restaurant and food business. In an industry where networking is key, immigrants arriving in the U.S. without established relationships struggle to find opportunities, no matter how skilled they are. Rather than simply telling immigrant stories, Cocina Libre provides tangible support to help immigrants navigate the food industry, launch careers and gain autonomy. A powerful example is Leela, a Venezuelan mother who, with her two daughters, crossed the Darién Jungle, an area between Colombia and Paraguay regarded as one of the most dangerous migration routes in the world.

After arriving in the U.S., Leela faced extreme difficulty securing housing and employment, despite her experience in the food and beverage industry. Through Cocina Libre, she found a platform to share her story and her recipes, participate in community dinners and, ultimately, develop her own food business. Cocina Libre empowers immigrants not just through storytelling but through real economic opportunities.

Cocina Libre continues to empower immigrants and educate the public, but the work relies on community support. Here’s how to get involved:

1. Attend a community dinner: These monthly events feature immigrant chefs cooking meals and sharing their stories.
2. Book a private workshop or DEI training: Ideal for businesses or organizations wanting to learn about immigration through food and storytelling.
3. Donate: Contributions help fund professional training, licensing and business support for immigrant chefs.

Through every meal shared and every story told, Cocina Libre continues to redefine what it means to be an immigrant—one plate at a time.